Gianluca’s son Matteo Bisol now oversees operations in Venice and met me outside the boat to guide me to Mazzorbo. Unlike the San Michele vineyards, Venissa is an impressive commercial enterprise – a Michelin-starred restaurant and luxury accommodation have been added to their portfolio in recent years. However, they share one of the fundamental principles of Laguna nel Bicchiere. “We are very serious about the quality of the wine,” Matteo told me. “But for us it represents something much bigger: to bring back a part of the history of Venice to the lagoon after almost losing this wine.” The rediscovery of dorona has sparked a revival in Venetian wine. Laguna nel Bicchiere now grows a mixture of dorona and other non-native grapes and produces mixed grape wines. Venissa whites are made with 100% dorona grapes and their vineyard is the only one dedicated exclusively to its commercial production. The limitations of the lagoon mean that it will always remain a boutique business. the estate produces 3,500 bottles per year, which are mainly sold in the immediate area. Venissa dorona wine has gained recognition for its full body and bold, dry taste, which is believed to be very similar – thanks to the unique profile of the dorona grape and the traditional, organic cultivation methods – to the wine so highly valued by the Doges. . Offers an unmistakable touch of saltiness and goes well with the lagoon ingredients served at Venissa’s restaurant, such as oysters, lavender and Sant’Erasmo honey.
